"umpqua dunes"

Gigantic Oregon coast dunes stretch from the town of North Bend to Florence, a stretch of 45 miles. Unfortunately, the dunes are threatened by invasive plant species. These dunes are the largest expanse of coastal dunes in North America, and are the tallest sand I've seen since I visited Great Sand Dunes National Park, in Colorado. This hike (5 miles out-and-back) is my favorite in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. Easy to get to and traversing ecological diversity, it's a "Don't Miss". The parking area is at John Dellenback Trailhead (fee area) off of Rt. 101. That would be 11 miles south of Reedsport, Or. From your vehicle, start to the right at the signboard and cross the bridge, ignoring a left turn. It is about a half mile hike to open dunes. At this point, pop out of the forest and shrubs and take the escalator (hee hee) to the top of the huge dune (to the left). After climbing to the top, you will see the tall trail posts marking the trail toward the Pacific Ocean. They do not have to be followed exactly, but are a good guide. The tree island in view will be traversed on the right side. A half mile past the tree island, the posts turn 90 degrees right before a shore forest, then a path left into the forest goes to the shore (at the 4th. post after turning right). It will be about 2 miles each way to the ocean from the top of the initial huge dune. You may take a little different route back to the vehicle if you like, but keep the posts in mind. You can get lost here, believe it or not. If I didn't get you there, try William Sullivan's book (ISBN 978-09677830-2X).

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"cape blanco"

This is one of my favorite hikes on the Oregon Pacific coast. It features rugged coastline, tidal events (CAREFUL! HAVE A TIDE TABLE), and historic lighthouse views. Drive to the Cape Blanco State Park exit off of Hwy. 101, 4 miles north of Port Orford, Or. Then follow directions to the Hughes House. Trail parking is north and downhill from the historic house, at the Sixes River (boat ramp). Take the path west across the meadow toward the ocean. (Don't use the riverside trail for this 7 mile loop trail.) Continue heading to the shore and you will be there in about 3/4 mile. Do not take the left turn about half way to the beach at .3 mi. A mile walk south along the wild beach brings you to a sharp uphill climb. If the uphill post marker is missed, no problem. The beach ends at the cape and you will back-track a few yards and see it. Back at the top, cross the lighthouse access paved road (100 yds to the left down the road) and head across a meadow SE along the "South Beach" trail. You should cross another paved road in about a mile from the lighthouse road. This is now the only confusing part. Cross this pavement, climb a path to an "X" junction in the meadow. Turn right at the junction and all others for a mile to the south beach.Turn right upon reaching the beach for 1/2 mile, hike up the paved road for a mile (through the campground to the lighthouse road again), and cross the road to a mowed path. Keep left at junctions now to your vehicle in 1 1/2 miles. Additional experiences: The Cape Blanco Lighthouse can be visited April to October for a couple dollars fee. The Hughes House, built in 1898, is accepting donations for tours during the same season.

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of agates and tidepools

We near-ocean dwellers like that stuff. My favorite tide pooling is at Cape Arago State Park, at the South Cove. This park is near Coos Bay, Oregon. Look for about a minus 3 tide. You always carry a tide table, right? So that you don't drown, right? Always look out for sneaker waves, right? Anyway, I prefer winter low tides for observing crabs, anemones, chitons and such. Too much sea grass in the summer.
For seeing agates, I've had the most luck near Tahkenitch Dunes, (13 miles south of Florence, Oregon) on the Pacific shore of course. The trail head is a fee area. The ocean is about 2 miles from the trail head. William Sullivan (ISBN 978-09677830-2X, Navillus Press) offers a nice loop hike option.

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"john day fossil beds"

Pictured: Painted Hills & Clarno (Leaf) Fossils......100 more photos here.
I could not normally, in good conscience, recommend a hiking network that is scattered among hundreds of driving miles. John Day Fossil Beds National Monument has enough to offer and overcomes the inconvenience.
My advice, stay in Mitchell at the historic Oregon Hotel (rustic, with community shower and toilet). After early check-in go to the nearby Painted Hills. There are about 2 1/2 miles of trails and the hills are beautiful deposits, changing texture and color with the weather. Before leaving Mitchell in the morning, take another look at the hills from the overlook. (All 3 units of the park are free access.) Head for the Sheep Rock Unit (park headquarters) for a museum and maybe five miles of hiking. The Sheep Rock Unit is the "History Channel" section. Finally, drive almost 80 miles to the Clarno Unit near Fossil, Or. for two or three very short hikes. That is hard to justify, but the leaf fossils and natural arch were great.
The second day was a very long day, with 200 miles of driving plus about 6 miles of hiking, with a museum. That's why I recommend just a quick morning look at Painted Hills.
No trails in the Monument are difficult. Blue Basin Trail has a little grind involved.
This area of the Oregon desert is uncomfortable in summer and winter.
Access to Painted Hills is off of Rt. 26 west of Mitchell, Or. Sheep Rock Unit is 40 miles east on the same highway. Clarno Unit is accessed from Rt. 218, west of Fossil, Oregon.

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"smith rock"

Pictured: Smith Rock, Crooked RiverWhile Smith Rock is certainly an impressive monolith, with the climbing routes on "Monkey Face" being famous, the Crooked River surrounding Smith Rock really completes the scene.
The 4 mile loop (there is a more demanding 6.3 mile loop available) hike along the river and up over the top of Smith Rock is mostly a level hike. The half mile near the end of the trail up to Misery Ridge is very difficult. The ball bearing descent from the ridge is no picnic either. Your speed up and down "Misery" will be one mile-per-hour or less. Only two notes for direction are needed: After crossing the river bridge initially, go left for best views. At the 2 1/2 mile mark, one trail continues straight along the river. Your trail turns right here and switchbacks up Misery Ridge. You should at this point be on the back side of "Monkey Face". Watching the vertical climbers on the front of this favorite is a highlight.
Mid-summer is very hot here.
The access to Smith Rock State Park (fee area) is from Rt. 97 in Terrebonne, Or., which is north of Redmond.
William Sullivan (ISBN 0-9677830-1-1, Navillus Press) does a good job on hike description.

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"ape cave"

Pictured: Mt. St. Helens from Ape Cave upper exitI do have an appreciation for Pacific Northwest hiking.
Ape Cave, on the south side of Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument (fee area), is the longest known lava tube in North America.
Fred Barstad has a good description of the hike in his guide (ISBN 978-1560446965, Falcon Guide), however I disagree with his difficulty rating. The upper cave is quite doable for experienced hikers (with an adequate light source of course). I do not believe that a person has to be an expert caver. I certainly am not! There is no crawling involved, and it's not very strenuous, but moderate. The 8 foot lava falls is slightly challenging. While lava tubes are not colorful (all black and dark), they are a neat, exciting experience. You are probably getting wet if you misstep in the tube (just ankle high at most). It is of course always damp, like any deep cave.
The upper cave heads uphill for just over a mile, then upon exiting, a person can take a one mile exterior trail back to the trail head.
Vehicle access, when open, is via Woodland, Washington and Rt. 503.
The nearby Trail of Two Forests is short and worthwhile.

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"siltcoos lake", "eel lake"

Siltcoos Lake loop trail (fee area), south of Florence, Oregon is neat but short (4.3 mi./ mt. bike) trail. There are a lot of wild mushrooms to see in the fall on the trail. DON'T DRINK THE WATER IN SILTCOOS LAKE! Wm. Sullivan's book (mentioned in "Blacklock Point") has a good description. It's a hiking book but the bicycle ride is the same.
Ditto the neat and short for Eel Lake (6 mi/ out-and-back), also technically a hiking trail. Just yield to hikers. The hopeful plan is for the trail to eventually circle the entire lake, situated in Tugman State Park, near Reedsport.
I recommend both of these for 1 day, with a 25 mile drive on scenic Rt. 101 between.

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intro w/ "blacklock point"

Well, I used to live near Moab, Ut. and in Fruita, Co. Any fat tire peeps who know those areas can understand that I am disappointed in Oregon bicycling trails. It's all green! Oh well, I'm a desert rat. Still, we found a few tracks to enjoy.

Blacklock Point Trail (9 mi. loop/ mt. bike) near Port Orford, Or. can be ridden during dry seasons. It starts in woodlands near a rural airport, continues to scenic bluffs above the Pacific Ocean, and then drops to ocean beach level dunes, where there may be windsurfers on Floras Lake. Mr. Sullivan has a good route description in his hiking guide (ISBN 978-09677830-2X, Navillus Press). There is also a waterfall, he says. I haven't found it yet. Good luck! O.K., so go around again.

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Leif Erickson Trail (22 mi. out-and-back/ mt. bike) is discussed on my bicycling website. It works for hiking, running too.